Musashi's Battle at Ichijoji, Kyoto

A quickened heart leaps
expelled frustrated destruction
cool grass bent underneath

早い心跳んで
開会的な欲求不満
下に涼しい草

-This Haiku has nothing to do with Ichijoji, but it fits none the less.

Ichijoji Kyoto was the first of three historical sites I've been to that was made famous my Miyamoto Musashi. Unlike the other two, that I was just lucky to go to, Ichijoji was a test of determination and will.

I read about Ichijoji in "Musashi" by Eiji Yoshikawa. Ichijoji was a temple in Northeaster Kyoto. Now the neighborhood surrounding where the temple once stood goes by the name. It isn't a small area. For example, a wayward foreigner (accompanied by his Japanese guides) may wander the Ichijoji hillside for hours looking for the exact site.

Ichijoji is known for its Soba noodles. I ate at a Soba-ya with some friends and enjoyed some Soba and Mochi Soup. That is until I nearly choked to death on the Mochi! (Mochi for the uninitiated is rice that has been pounded into a glob with the consistency of bubble gum.) It comes in various colors, pink, green, white (depending on the beans it is mixed with during cooking). It can be sweet or bland. Mochi also has varying degree's of Chewiness.... That restraunt was serving the 'ultra' chewy variety. It was down right dangerous!!

-Anyway back to Ichijoji!

During his travels about the countryside Miyamoto Musashi made bitter enemies with the Yoshioka Clan. The kind of enemies where the entire family swears an oath to kill you. To make matters worse the Yoshioka family ran a Dojo teaching Tenshin Shoden Katori Shitno-ryu and had a vast following. It was the pre-eminent martial arts school of the 8 in Kyoto at the time. Musashi fought three duels with the Yoshioka. The third occurred at the base of a pine tree, Sagarimatsu.

Musashi snuck to a nearby temple to pray before the battle. Susanono - Mikoto Temple was founded in 1294, 300 years prior to Musashi's visit. Musashi nearly rang the bell, as is proper form, giving up his location to his enemies. - Unlike Musashi, I took the time to ring the bell! -

Needless to say, Musashi dueled the Yoshioka Clan and handing them a serious defeat. A defeat that brought an end to their school of sword fighting. It is possible that Musashi killed over 20 swordsmen at the location. Musashi was so overwhelmed by opponents that he began using both of his swords, thus starting his own signature style of swordsmanship, Ni-to Ryu. Musashi was one of few people who could wield both the Katana and the Wakazashi at the same time. (long and short swords.)

The photo above is the bronze statue of Musashi at Susanono - Mikoto Temple in Ichijoji.

By clicking this link you can view Ichijoji.
"Why would I do that?" you ask.
-See Susanono Mikoto Temple
-See the actual Sagarimitsu (and me too -a first for PoZ)
-See the location of the Yoshioka Duel
-See a living descendant of Sagarimitsu.... (Well at least it could be)

Wikipedia also has a very informative page on Musashi. However, Wikipedia doesn't have a site on Ichijoji. They definitely don't have these cool photo's!

For a bit more information on Musashi, including pictures of his hometown and location of his first battle look at my previous post on Ohara.

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