Uji City - Cormorant Fishing; Ukai 2 宇治市の鵜飼

With the moon above
Never knowing the true fear
Plucked from a dream


Last week I started into my experience with Cormorant Fishing on the Uji River.  As I mentioned, this was truly one of my favorite experiences in Japan.  I think that one of the reasons I enjoyed it so much was because I didn't expect it to be as interesting as it was.  You know what its like; you sign up for something knowing you'll have fun, not really caring too much either way.... Then when you're all finished you know that you've just had one of those  great  experiences that can never be repeated.

The History
Cormorant fishing is not solely a Japanese Art, though it has been practiced in Japan for some 1300 years.  Apparently, in Peru, Cormorant fishing has a recorded history some 100 years longer than that of Japan.(1).  China and Europe also have a history of using Cormorants for fishing.  China uses a much larger bird and Europeans had a brief stint of Cormorant fishing that closely resembled falconry (1).  Not surprisingly Ukai fishing has lost its vitality as a source of subsistence.  Though, as a culturally important practice it thrives as a tourism industry.  Gifu, Arashiyama, and Uji are several of the popular sights for tourists to enjoy Ukai. 

The Vocab
So let's run through some of the vocab related to Ukai.  I can never remember all the names of things so its helpful to have a handy list around just in case someone asks... I can't even remember all the parts to a Katana...  Let alone kimono, guns, temples, not to mention Ukai!  So many words.... so little brains.

The operation (2):
Usho - Fisher person
Ubune - Traditional boat
Kagari bi - Fire for attracting fish
Kagari - Basket holding the fire
Kagari bou - Pole for holding the 'BASKET OF FIRE' -emphasis added-
Tanawa - Rope used to control the Cormorants

The clothing (2):
Kazaori eboushi - Cloth cap soaked in water.  This is almost like a bandana tossed on the head.  It is soaked in water and helps the Usho work close to the fire and avoid the flame.
Ryou fuku and Mune ate.  Ryou fuku literally means 'purposeful clothing' and Mune means chest.  These clothes are designed to give the Usho protection from water, flame, and possible a rebellious Cormorant.
Koshi mino - This is the heavy straw apron (skirt) that keeps the Usho warm and dry while handling the Cormorant.

The Photo-Op
I was feeling a little bold at the end of the show.  After leaving our boat a slightly less drunk group of us followed the Usho up to the pens where the birds were fed.  The Japanese (who were the only other tourists) all took pictures of her feeding the birds and packing up for the night.  I knew what they all wanted to ask but were too Japanese to do!  So I took the initiative.

I asked in my most polite Japanese I could muster.. Excuse me.... can we have a picture with you?  There was a little bit of surprise from the crowd... I don't think they were offended... I think they wished they had asked first!  She readily obliged and the moment was cemented in digital history.  I don't have any solo photo's of her to post on this sight, but it you follow this link to some photographs of Ukai and scroll to the bottom, you will see a photo of our Usho. 

If you haven't done it, you need to!  Go experience Ukai for yourself.

 The Japan National Tourism Organization has a brief post on Ukai but it is not as detailed as the Gifu Convention and Visitor's Bureau site.  Check them out, they have a lot of interesting information.

In my next post on Ukai I will upload a video I've been hiding.

The Hook
-So weigh in, have you seen Ukai?  Was it worth it?  Some sites describe the practice as exploitation of the birds....  What do you think?


(1)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cormorant_fishing 

(2)http://www.gifucvb.or.jp/en/01_sightseeing/01_01_01.html

One more week until the JLPT.  Maybe I'll study some more tomorrow... eh, maybe I won't.

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