Uji City Tea 宇治市のお茶

Woven Reflection
Shadows between the light
Cast across the waves

Uji is a fascinating place for a number of reasons.  It has a huge history for what is really a small area.  When you usually think of historical cites you think of Paris, London, Kyoto, Washington DC, Moscow, Berlin.  Most of the cities that come to mind are Capital Cities and places teeming with people.

Uji is none of this.  It is not a capital, though it had been, nor is it a metropolis of millions of people.  It is not well known for its historic battles or leaps of human development.  Uji is off the path of the average tourist, maybe just a page in the Fodor's guidebook glanced at quickly before scouring the Kyoto must see attractions.  While I do remember seeing Westerners there, it is secluded enough to deter the average traveler.  It was a rarity that anyone spoke any English.

A -little- History
Outside of Japan, Uji is known for being the setting for a portion of the Tale of Genji.  Some foreigners may even recognize that it is the location where Byodo-in stands over 1000 years old.  But in Japan, Uji is one of the most famous tea growing sections of the country.  Some Japanese are very particular about their tea, refusing to drink any tea other than their favorite locale.

Tsuen Tea House.
Uji Boasts the oldest tea shop in Japan, dating back to 1160.  The Tsuen Tea House sits overlooking the Uji River from the Eastern bank next to the Uji bridge.  The Tsuen Tea House traces its lineage to a retired Samurai who set up a tea house for travelers passing through Uji.  Along with the tea house Tsuen Masahisa 
acted as gate keeper for the bridge.  The Tsuen family also maintained the bridge, rebuilding their teahouse whenever the bridge was renovated.  The family boasts of being the friends of the Monk Ikkyu, the Ashikage Shogun, as well as Toyotomi Hideyoshi.  Quite possibly the Tsuen tea house is the oldest tea house in the world.  Eiji Yoshinkawa referenced the Tsuen tea house in his book Musashi.

Historic Uji's streets are packed with tea houses.  We walked the streets several times so to make sure that we didn't miss any.  Many of the tea houses offered free tasting, with some more special teas requiring a fee to taste.  It was very a similar experience to wine tasting.  The teas run the gambit from Matcha, to Hojicha, to Sencha and Bancha.  Each tea has a particular method and heat to steep.  Each one's directions just as hard to read in Japanese!

My pick for best tea shop
My favorite tea shop in Uji is Nakamura Tokichi Honten.  It has a tasting room and restaurant.  I had been recommended to me by a friend from Uji.  I was not disappointed.  On two occasions I have stocked up on Sencha and Bancha here.  For those lucky enough to live in Japan you can order tea and sweets from their online store.  The rest of us Gaikokujin will have to settle for the intermittent visit.

Speaking of sweets....  Tokichi has some awesome melt in your mouth Green Tea Chocolates.  Unfortunately they have to be kept cold or else they melt.

I wasn't able to visit any of the tea plantations outside of Uji.  I can only imagine that they are quite the sight.  Having been to one in Hang-zhou China I really need to check out a traditional Japanese plantation.   

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This photo is taken of a statue commemorating The Tale of Genji.  It sits on the bank of the Uji river next to the Uji Bridge.  Read more about the Tale of Genji.

The Hook
-So where's you favorite place to get and drink tea?  Is is Starbucks?  Or do you have a local shop you visit?  Or is it on your back deck?

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