Uji City - Cormorant Fishing; Ukai 2 宇治市の鵜飼

With the moon above
Never knowing the true fear
Plucked from a dream


Last week I started into my experience with Cormorant Fishing on the Uji River.  As I mentioned, this was truly one of my favorite experiences in Japan.  I think that one of the reasons I enjoyed it so much was because I didn't expect it to be as interesting as it was.  You know what its like; you sign up for something knowing you'll have fun, not really caring too much either way.... Then when you're all finished you know that you've just had one of those  great  experiences that can never be repeated.

The History
Cormorant fishing is not solely a Japanese Art, though it has been practiced in Japan for some 1300 years.  Apparently, in Peru, Cormorant fishing has a recorded history some 100 years longer than that of Japan.(1).  China and Europe also have a history of using Cormorants for fishing.  China uses a much larger bird and Europeans had a brief stint of Cormorant fishing that closely resembled falconry (1).  Not surprisingly Ukai fishing has lost its vitality as a source of subsistence.  Though, as a culturally important practice it thrives as a tourism industry.  Gifu, Arashiyama, and Uji are several of the popular sights for tourists to enjoy Ukai. 

The Vocab
So let's run through some of the vocab related to Ukai.  I can never remember all the names of things so its helpful to have a handy list around just in case someone asks... I can't even remember all the parts to a Katana...  Let alone kimono, guns, temples, not to mention Ukai!  So many words.... so little brains.

The operation (2):
Usho - Fisher person
Ubune - Traditional boat
Kagari bi - Fire for attracting fish
Kagari - Basket holding the fire
Kagari bou - Pole for holding the 'BASKET OF FIRE' -emphasis added-
Tanawa - Rope used to control the Cormorants

The clothing (2):
Kazaori eboushi - Cloth cap soaked in water.  This is almost like a bandana tossed on the head.  It is soaked in water and helps the Usho work close to the fire and avoid the flame.
Ryou fuku and Mune ate.  Ryou fuku literally means 'purposeful clothing' and Mune means chest.  These clothes are designed to give the Usho protection from water, flame, and possible a rebellious Cormorant.
Koshi mino - This is the heavy straw apron (skirt) that keeps the Usho warm and dry while handling the Cormorant.

The Photo-Op
I was feeling a little bold at the end of the show.  After leaving our boat a slightly less drunk group of us followed the Usho up to the pens where the birds were fed.  The Japanese (who were the only other tourists) all took pictures of her feeding the birds and packing up for the night.  I knew what they all wanted to ask but were too Japanese to do!  So I took the initiative.

I asked in my most polite Japanese I could muster.. Excuse me.... can we have a picture with you?  There was a little bit of surprise from the crowd... I don't think they were offended... I think they wished they had asked first!  She readily obliged and the moment was cemented in digital history.  I don't have any solo photo's of her to post on this sight, but it you follow this link to some photographs of Ukai and scroll to the bottom, you will see a photo of our Usho. 

If you haven't done it, you need to!  Go experience Ukai for yourself.

 The Japan National Tourism Organization has a brief post on Ukai but it is not as detailed as the Gifu Convention and Visitor's Bureau site.  Check them out, they have a lot of interesting information.

In my next post on Ukai I will upload a video I've been hiding.

The Hook
-So weigh in, have you seen Ukai?  Was it worth it?  Some sites describe the practice as exploitation of the birds....  What do you think?


(1)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cormorant_fishing 

(2)http://www.gifucvb.or.jp/en/01_sightseeing/01_01_01.html

One more week until the JLPT.  Maybe I'll study some more tomorrow... eh, maybe I won't.

All photo's, original works, and comments are my personal property. Please be respectful of the effort I've taken.


Your comments are welcome, be polite:
No throwing pebbles in my pool of zen.

Uji City - Cormorant Fishing; Ukai 宇治市の鵜飼

Scooped from the depths
For some, not quite far enough
Others, still too deep

So this is one of the greatest things I have ever done!  I'm serious.  None of my Japanese friends have ever seen this.  I had never heard of it.  And I almost passed it up because I'm a cheapskate!

During my June visit to Uji I somehow learned about the Cormorant Fishing.  Ukai is performed in a boat on the Uji River.  For about 20 dollars a person you can sit in an adjacent boat and watch.  Because of the price I nearly gave up my seat and watched from the shore... Wow! I'm so glad I spent the money.  We could literally reach out and touch the birds.

So what is this all about?
 
Ukai is a phenomenon.  Here's how it works; A group of cormorants are skillfully tied to individual ropes.  The birds are tied in a harness around there bodies, then a loop is tied around the neck.  The birds aren't held to the handler by the neck, but the rope restricts the bird from swallowing its prey.  The Ukai (or fisher(woman) holds all the birds' ropes in one hand.  The birds swim out into the river and each take turns diving under the surface.  When a bird catches a fish is surfaces and tries swallowing.  The Ukai is able to see that it has a fish and reels it in.  A little fancy finger work and the handler removes the fish from the cormorant's mouth.

I was really surprised with how many fish  the birds would catch.  They were almost always successful in there dives.  A basket full of burning wood is suspended front the boat out in front of the birds.  Many times the birds swim to where they are nearly scorched by the fire... Lucky for them they are covered in water!

Ukai is a seasonal event,  I'm not sure exactly when the dates are, but I think they are active throughout June.
In subsequent posts I will try to explore the history of Ukai and get into the special clothing the Ukai wears.  I'll also post an amazing video I took of the process.

I think there are other cities in Japan that have Ukai fishing.  It is surely a rare and dying art.


One thing to note; I shared the boat with some seriously drunk Japanese.  I mean, more drunk than the average evening train passenger!  Yeah, these guys were wasted!  It was a great time!!!

Normally I'd feel bad for the Cormorants... But after the show they all get fed pretty well.
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The looming JLPT 3
 
So I'm studying for the JLPT in December.  I've been studying vocabulary and grammar like a fool.  Recently I've been taking older tests as practice.  Who knows how I'll do on the real thing.  I took it a year ago and was 1.5 percent away from passing!  This year I'm feeling a lot more confident, but who knows.  I always dread the listening comprehension... Oh, and the particles!

For anyone interested in or in the process of learning Japanese,  I STRONGLY recommend
Japanesepod101.com  Try out the free membership, and free pod-casts.  J-pod101 is a great place to get exposure to a variety of Japanese- Basic grammar, Kanji, Kansai-ben, advanced listening.  It really is a great resource.  I've been prowling the web looking for good Japanese study aids and this one is by far the best.

I just hope it helped!

So, off to Seattle in two weeks.  Going to stay at my friends new condo in Bell town overlooking the bay.  Should be a good time.  I'll make sure to stop in at Uwajimaya and Nomisake.  Maybe I'll see you at the test!  Good luck!


All photo's, original works, and comments are my personal property. Please be respectful of the effort I've taken.


Your comments are welcome, be polite:
No throwing pebbles in my pool of zen.

Uji City Tea 宇治市のお茶

Woven Reflection
Shadows between the light
Cast across the waves

Uji is a fascinating place for a number of reasons.  It has a huge history for what is really a small area.  When you usually think of historical cites you think of Paris, London, Kyoto, Washington DC, Moscow, Berlin.  Most of the cities that come to mind are Capital Cities and places teeming with people.

Uji is none of this.  It is not a capital, though it had been, nor is it a metropolis of millions of people.  It is not well known for its historic battles or leaps of human development.  Uji is off the path of the average tourist, maybe just a page in the Fodor's guidebook glanced at quickly before scouring the Kyoto must see attractions.  While I do remember seeing Westerners there, it is secluded enough to deter the average traveler.  It was a rarity that anyone spoke any English.

A -little- History
Outside of Japan, Uji is known for being the setting for a portion of the Tale of Genji.  Some foreigners may even recognize that it is the location where Byodo-in stands over 1000 years old.  But in Japan, Uji is one of the most famous tea growing sections of the country.  Some Japanese are very particular about their tea, refusing to drink any tea other than their favorite locale.

Tsuen Tea House.
Uji Boasts the oldest tea shop in Japan, dating back to 1160.  The Tsuen Tea House sits overlooking the Uji River from the Eastern bank next to the Uji bridge.  The Tsuen Tea House traces its lineage to a retired Samurai who set up a tea house for travelers passing through Uji.  Along with the tea house Tsuen Masahisa 
acted as gate keeper for the bridge.  The Tsuen family also maintained the bridge, rebuilding their teahouse whenever the bridge was renovated.  The family boasts of being the friends of the Monk Ikkyu, the Ashikage Shogun, as well as Toyotomi Hideyoshi.  Quite possibly the Tsuen tea house is the oldest tea house in the world.  Eiji Yoshinkawa referenced the Tsuen tea house in his book Musashi.

Historic Uji's streets are packed with tea houses.  We walked the streets several times so to make sure that we didn't miss any.  Many of the tea houses offered free tasting, with some more special teas requiring a fee to taste.  It was very a similar experience to wine tasting.  The teas run the gambit from Matcha, to Hojicha, to Sencha and Bancha.  Each tea has a particular method and heat to steep.  Each one's directions just as hard to read in Japanese!

My pick for best tea shop
My favorite tea shop in Uji is Nakamura Tokichi Honten.  It has a tasting room and restaurant.  I had been recommended to me by a friend from Uji.  I was not disappointed.  On two occasions I have stocked up on Sencha and Bancha here.  For those lucky enough to live in Japan you can order tea and sweets from their online store.  The rest of us Gaikokujin will have to settle for the intermittent visit.

Speaking of sweets....  Tokichi has some awesome melt in your mouth Green Tea Chocolates.  Unfortunately they have to be kept cold or else they melt.

I wasn't able to visit any of the tea plantations outside of Uji.  I can only imagine that they are quite the sight.  Having been to one in Hang-zhou China I really need to check out a traditional Japanese plantation.   

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This photo is taken of a statue commemorating The Tale of Genji.  It sits on the bank of the Uji river next to the Uji Bridge.  Read more about the Tale of Genji.

The Hook
-So where's you favorite place to get and drink tea?  Is is Starbucks?  Or do you have a local shop you visit?  Or is it on your back deck?

All photo's, original works, and comments are my personal property. Please be respectful of the effort I've taken.


Your comments are welcome, be polite:
No throwing pebbles in my pool of zen.

Uji City Taiho-an 宇治市 茶室 対鳳庵

It thrashes and fights
To rush back to the current
Taken from the stream



The sign hanging on the fence outside reads　お茶屋, 'Tea House'.  The small structure hides meekly, across the alley adjacent to the Uji tourist center.  A reservation and modest fee for tickets will secure your personal tea ceremony.  There are no crowds to follow, no hustle of people lining up for a seat.  The only presence is the hesitation and anticipation when crossing the threshold from the known to the unknown.

Just inside the gate of Taiho-an you are greeted by a the formal trappings of a Tea House.  It is a small courtyard with greenery and the crunch of stone under foot.  A footpath of flat rock brings to mind an endless parade of Tea Ceremony scenes from your favorite Samurai drama.  Suddenly you feel uncomfortable in Western clothing, wishing you had at least worn your Ryokan's meager yukata.

Through the doorway the now familiar sent of Tatami greets you as your eyes adjust to the truly Japanese trappings.  A toconoma, tetsubin, bamboo ladle, whisk, and chawan sit comfortably waiting for your acquatance.  As your feet touch the Tatami you are reminded that you have already instinctively taken your shoes off.  The tatami is soft and warm on your feet but your knees reel as you fold into seiza.

Your hostess arrives in a flowing wave of Kimono and Tabi socks.  Your ears struggle with your mind to catch up to the rapid Japanese of a new dialect.  Its hopeless and you struggle to remember the ins and outs of Tea Ceremony. First bow to my host or was it to my neighbor?.... What was I going to say again... is it 「Osaki-ni」 or 「Arigatou」? 


Suddenly it all stops, your hands wrap around the small bowl of lush green tea and you focus on calm, quiet, and nothingness.  Twice you turn the bowl, enjoying its beauty, the contrast between the glaze and the tea.  A small pattern within the lines of the bowl draws your eyes to focus.  Somewhere in your periphery the colorful Kimono contrast to the earthen walls.  The black strokes of the Sumi-e contrast against the bare toconoma.   

Touching the tea to your lips you share the faint remnants of a divine whisper the history and magic of a place.  As the tea fades to the bottom of the chawan your heart beats again.  Your eyes and ears and mind reel again.  Was it bow then pass the bowl or should I have said, 「Arigatou」 again?  A struggle breaks as your mind tries to drag you back to stillness but your eyes and ears lurch you into the present.  Its over and you are once again lost in the rush of being.

Slowly, after the flurry of pleasant bows and cautious smiles you revive your legs and draw yourself to your feet.  Walking out of the gate the rush of plans and destinations drag you onward and that last look back, your last chance for a memory of a thing is forgotten.  Suddenly your only connection to the place, the feeling, the taste, and the essence are a few hastily shot photographs.

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Taiho-an is a formal and traditional Tea-house in Uji.  It sits next to Byodo-in.  Its name is reference to Byodo-in's Phoenix Hall and means, "Tea-house across from the Pheonix."  The ceremony you will experience at Taiho-an will be unlike any other tea you take in Japan.  The only experience you will find that is closer to a true ceremony is if a friend invites you to one of their own.

-The link to the Kyoto Travel Guide
-The Japanese link to Taiho-an

Talking with my dog
I find that he knows it well
Slurping his water bowl

All photo's, original works, and comments are my personal property. Please be respectful of the effort I've taken.


Your comments are welcome, be polite:
No throwing pebbles in my pool of zen.