Saturday, January 16, 2010

Japanese Graveside Visit (Hakamairi) 墓参り


Only the silent
Wind, rolling among the trees
Stone bound forest

How I got there

This is a graveyard on Mt. Roko, a short drive out of Tondabaya City, Osaka. Apparently this area is well known in Kansai, as I showed a photo of the mountain to a friend and she knew exactly where it was. I came here with friends during a meinichi 命日(Death Anniversary) for the family patriarch. Following a Buddhist ceremony at the family shrine, 仏壇 (butsudan), we drove to the graveyard, 墓地 (hakachi).

The graveside ceremony

First we removed the old offerings from the grave. This included flowers, incense, and food containers. Then we washed the gravestone. This was very interesting. At the front of the graveyard were small buckets and ladles along with spigots. As we entered the cemetery we picked up a few buckets, ladles, and filled the buckets with water. Ladling water from the bucket we ceremoniously poured water over the graveston
e cleaning off dirt, dust, and flower pedals.

After washing off the grave we made a new offering which included flowers, incense, and shochu. Apparently my friend's father enjoyed the specific type of Japanese Shochu (alcohol) that we offered to him that day.

After cleaning off the 'gravestone' 墓、(haka), my friend's mother recited a Buddhist prayer, お経 (Okyou), while kneeling at the grave. She recited the sutra while counting the stanzas using her Buddhist prayer beads, 数珠 (Juzu).  The two or three minute hypnotizing prayer was made even more impressive because it was recite
d from memory. (I'll attach the sutra to this post once I find it!)
-A photo of the cleansing utensils as you enter the graveyard.
The Japanese Gravestone

The Japanese Graveyard is very different from Western style cemeteries. The first impression you get is how crowded the cemetery is. The next thing you notice is the design of the 'tombstones' which are completely different. Japanese tombstones are usually inter an entire family not just a single individual.

Another difference you may notice is that the tombstone has writing in black ink and red ink. There will be a long string of Kanji that includes the family name as well as the family patriarchs name. Around this one can see smaller names written on the gravestone. These names are the other members of the family. Black names are those names of people who are deceased and entombed at the grave site. Names in red are the names of those still living.

Daughter's names are not included on the family gravestone. It is expected that they will be added to the gravestone of the family they marry into.

During O-bon festival, Families will travel to their ancestor's graves to pay respects.

The Japanese are far more 'in-tune' with their families past as well as honoring the family members who came before them. I can think of only once that I visited my family's grave site in Pittsburgh. I think that because Americans are so transient in nature and set on living not only in the 'now' but so much looking ahead, that we set little time aside for reflecting on how we arrived at our present location.



The graveyard at Daitokuji



All photo's, original works, and comments are my personal property. Please be respectful of the effort I've taken.

Your comments are welcome, be polite:
No throwing pebbles in my pool of zen.

8 comments:

  1. I participated in a "49th day service" at a cemetery once in which we also washed the grave site etc. It was very interesting.
    ReplyDelete
  2. I think mine was a 3 year service. It was fascinating. Being able to have personnal connections in Japan has been a blessing. Since I'm not living there being able to visit friends and enjoy their culture with them has been incredible. Very eye opening. Something the average tourist sadly, misses out on.
    ReplyDelete
  3. These are all very attractive and beautiful old buildings and temples which are too innovative and very much creative as well.
    ReplyDelete
  4. I'm a big fan of Japanese architecture and design as well. I'm no engineer, I just like to look at them and marvel at their complexity. I especially like the 5 story pagodas that had earthquake proof designs. Quite an engineering feet 700 years ago.
    ReplyDelete
  5. Thanks for this post. Any chance you found out which sutra she recited? Or did you post it and I missed it?

    Thanks.
    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi Anonymous,

    I actually do have the sutra.... somewhere. I'll look for it and try to scan it in and post it as a comment. It's really long!

    I should have it and get it up this coming weekend. I'll let you know. Thanks for reminding me!
    ReplyDelete
  7. Hi!

    I hope you still maintain this page. A friend of mine and I were planning a visit to Japan and wanted to visit/honor gravesites of some historical figures. Is washing the tombstone something strangers/foreigners would do as well? We wanted to horor the grave without commiting any indecent "faux pas". Any advice you could give would be great!

    Thanks
    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi Allan,

    I've been going through a bit of a 'life transition' as of late... so I'm sorry to say the Pool of Zen has suffered... but I do intend on adding to it.

    I have to say, that I'm not positive about your question. If it were a historical figure it may be slightly different. But I can say that the graveside ritual was very personal and would have been awkward even for me to join in while I was a guest.

    IF you feel that you are being in good taste and you didn't have an audience... I think you could get away with a respectful and modest ceremony.

    When it comes down to it... who cares what the living think... Would the dead understand?

    Thanks for the visit and the comment.

    -as far as the sutra.... well - I will have to search for it... :)

    Matt
    ReplyDelete

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